How to Find the Right Replacement Chainsaw Chain

Buying a replacement chainsaw chain comes down to three numbers: pitch, gauge, and drive link count. All three must match your bar and sprocket, and missing any one of them is the most common reason a new chain arrives and does not fit. This guide walks through where to find those numbers and how to confirm them before you order.

Start with the bar stamp

Most bars have pitch, gauge, and length stamped or printed near the mounting slot at the base, closest to the powerhead. This is the fastest source of accurate information since it comes directly from the manufacturer rather than a measurement you take yourself. If the stamp has worn off from years of use, the owner’s manual for your saw model usually lists the same specifications, and manufacturer websites typically publish them by model number as well.

Understanding pitch and gauge

Pitch is the distance across three rivets divided by two, and gauge is the thickness of the drive link that rides in the bar groove. These two numbers are independent of each other and both must match precisely. A full explanation of how to measure and interpret them, along with the common sizes used on residential saws, is covered in our guide to chainsaw pitch and gauge. If you already know your saw’s specs from a previous chain purchase, you can skip straight to counting drive links.

Counting drive links

Drive link count determines the overall length of the chain loop, and it must match your specific bar length exactly, since two saws with the same bar length can still require a different number of drive links depending on pitch. The most reliable way to get this number is to count the drive links on your old chain directly, one by one around the entire loop, including the links under the bar and sprocket cover. If the old chain is missing or too damaged to count, most retailers offer a chain finder tool where you enter bar length, pitch, and gauge, and it returns the correct drive link count for that combination.

Double-check before you buy

Because a chain that is one drive link too short will not close around the bar and sprocket, and one that is too long will hang loose even at maximum bar adjustment, it is worth verifying your numbers twice before ordering, especially if you are buying online rather than in person where a store clerk can cross-check the fit. Write down pitch, gauge, and drive link count together, since a chain listing will show all three, and a chain that matches only two of the three specifications is not a correct fit.

Choosing chain type once fit is confirmed

After confirming fit, the remaining decision is cutter type. Full-chisel chains cut faster in clean wood but dull quickly if they contact dirt or bark grit, while semi-chisel chains cut slightly slower but hold an edge longer and are more forgiving for general yard and firewood use. The tradeoffs are detailed in our full-chisel versus semi-chisel comparison. Once you have chosen fit and chain type, this roundup of well-reviewed chainsaw chains is a good starting point for shopping specific brands and models.

When to replace rather than repair

A chain nearing the end of its usable life, with cutters worn down close to the depth gauges or drive links stretched beyond safe adjustment range, should be replaced outright rather than resharpened repeatedly. If you are unsure whether your current chain still has useful life left, our guide on telling when a chain is dull explains the visual and performance signs to check, and our guide on chainsaw chain lifespan covers roughly how many sharpenings a well-maintained chain can take before replacement is the better option.

Keeping the old chain until the new one is confirmed to fit is good practice, since it gives you a reference for drive link count and a backup if the replacement turns out to be the wrong size.

Ordering from a store versus online

Buying in person at a dealer or hardware store that stocks chain by the loop lets staff cross-check your bar or old chain directly, which reduces the chance of an ordering mistake. Buying online is often cheaper and offers a wider selection of chain types, but the responsibility for correct measurements falls entirely on you, so it is worth double-checking pitch, gauge, and drive link count against the listing description before completing the order, and saving the listing or a screenshot in case a return or exchange is needed. Either way, avoid ordering based on your saw’s brand and model alone, since many manufacturers offer the same saw model with different bar and chain configurations depending on region or year of production.